Red Dao Homestay, Vietnam.

Meet Red Dao minority, living in this majestic mountainous scenery of Ta Phin Village, in Sa Pa, Vietnam.

This homestay experience in Ta Phin village is honestly one of my favourite moments during my trip to Vietnam.

If you have been considering going on a journey to Sapa, Vietnam, then wait no more. With its diverse hill tribe cultures and an abundance of nature, the trip to Sapa will absolutely be mind-altering and an adventure of a lifetime.

Sa Pa is located near the border of China and is recognized as one of the hidden gems of North Vietnam. It is really remarkable for its stunning landscapes of green rice paddy fields stretch as far as the eye can see, blooming hills, and paths in lush valleys. My traveling experience would not be complete if I only had seen the magnificent sceneries without the smiley faces and colourful textiles of the hill tribes. I got the unique chance to meet the culturally rich hill tribe population, Red Dao and the Black Hmong people, with a strong visual presence in the area. May Kieu and Lua from Red Dao tribe, hosted me at their place for a couple of days, offering a unique experience.

Red Dao tribe originated from China. They are one of the 54 ethnic groups that are officially recognised in Vietnam. Their language is certainly one of the H’Mong languages and their writing is based on Chinese alphabet modified to match their different spellings of words. Red Dao still wear their traditional ethnic costumes and their lifestyle is unchanged for centuries. Both women and the men usually cover their heads with black or red scarves. The women sometimes replace this scarf for a turban. In addition, most ladies also shave their eyebrows. The traditional dress of the women is a brightly colored blouse worn over long trousers. The blouse is an intricately patterned affair, which is normally decorated with silver. The Red Dao practice and are specialists in the field of herbal medicine. Vietnam is fairly proud of its ethnic minority people.

My trip to Northern Vietnam started at the Railway station of the capital of Vietnam Hanoifor the night train to Lao Cai (320km). One of the most comfortable and value for money ways to get to Lao Cai is to take a train from Hanoi station. It is recommended to catch an evening train, leaving between 21:00 to 23:00 to reach Lao Cai terminal 8 hours later, early the next morning; night trains are usually better in terms of quality and facilities. All hotels can help you get the train tickets to fit your budget and comfort level if you need it. Tickets can also be bought from the train station in Hanoi. SP7, SP1, and SP3 are respectable trains. Berths come in three main classes: soft-sleeper (with or without a.c.), hard sleeper, or hard seat. Most travellers like me opt for the soft-sleeper.

Once I arrived in Lao Cai, I took a local minibus, en route to Sa Pa; about one hour uphill (around 35 km). There are many mini vans going along this route from early morning till late afternoon with a current cost per person of about $60,000 Dong (2-3 euro). Always confirm the price before getting into the van.

17km Northeast of Sapa, after some easy hiking, you will reach Ta Phinvillage – a well-known destination in Vietnam for its excellent and mountainous landscapes. The village is set within a wide valley with a towering peak at one end. We’ve spent leisurely 3 hrs absorbing the atmosphere, breaking for lunch and talking with the locals. The views were unbelievable, the sun was at zenith and along the way we were joined by a group of Red Daoladies accompanied us to their community.

When I reached the village and eventually located the May Kieuand Lua's traditional house at the top of the hill, I met all the family as they were waiting in front of the house to welcome me with a big smile. May Kieu spoke just basic English and tried kindly to show me her house. It was built using bamboo and wood and it had three rooms: a living room and two dormitories on the sides. The upper level was used to hang dried corn and rice. May Kieu was an excellent cook who uses locally grown vegetables and products. Dinner was a large array of Vietnamese dishes including tofu, spring rolls, pork, chicken, stewed vegetables, white rice, and of course, strong local corn wine. May Kieu’s husband, Phan Quay Lua was a hospitable tour guide. He went out of his way during my stay to make sure I was comfortable, especially when taking me every day around the mountains for trekking and collecting many different kinds of plants for my herbal bath!

Red Dao, are very well known for their traditional “herbal baths”. When we were back from trekking at the forest, we boiled fresh herbs collected on the day, as well as the dried ones in a water-filled giant wok, over a charcoal fire. All of us enjoyed the lovely smell of these natural medicines as they were brewing. After several hours of brewing, the water was transferred to a wooden barrel tub and then it was ready for me to get myself in and soak to the bones. The ritual of Dao traditional bath includes washing away all of the aches, worries, pains, and woes at once in a separated bathhouse. I came out feeling squeaky clean and like a brand new person both inside and outside. Before going to sleep we spent some time playing with May Kieu and Lua’s children, with wooden handmade toys; everyone was so kind and hospitable. Overall, it was an exceptional experience for me!

Red Dao’s tribe, possessing a rich culture that is trying not to be affected by the modern life and May Kieu’s homestay is therefore highly suggested for experiencing the beauty of the rice terraces, regaining life perspectives, feeling life as a member of Red Dao hill tribe, even if its only for just a couple of nights! This homestay experience, is really one of my favourite moments traveling in Vietnam!